Last minute decisions

So the other day started out a bit different than most. Instead of heading straight into work I waited for the man who was coming to clean. I have avoided calling him because I feel a bit guilty paying someone to clean up for me. But here you have to hand wash all the clothes and everyday there is a coating of dust that settles throughout the house. My flatmate, who I haven’t actually lived with yet, and have really been just staying at his place, is returning this week. He normally has this guy come and clean so I figured he would leave the place in whatever sort of standard my flatmate might prefer. And the man who came to clean was very happy to receive some work. So I worked over my data while I waited for him to finish cleaning and headed into work shortly before lunch.

At lunch one of my colleagues and I went to a nearby cafe where I ate chapati with beans. Chapati is a common food eaten here, quite similar to tortillas but always freshly cooked. On the TV they were discussing the game for this afternoon – the Kenya vs. Nigeria qualifiers for the 2014 world cup. We had discussed going to this before but never made arrangements. We weren’t sure if we could get tickets still since it was only a couple hours away. But it wasn’t too far to walk there so we decided to make an adventure out of it and head to the stadium and see if we could get in.

As we headed over we were met with people selling all sorts of Kenyan paraphernalia. I got a scarf and my friend bought a flag. People were more and more covered in Kenyan colors and the atmosphere was thick with excitement. The streets were flooded with people heading to the game and people selling merchandise and food for the game. People were always eager to get the attention of us “muzungus” as we walked by, being quite aggressive at times some even draping us in scarves and other items. We asked any guards we came across about buying tickets and were turned this way and that and given some conflicting information. We asked a couple men carrying large cameras about tickets and it turned out they were from the media and insisted on interviewing us. They told us after we should just try at the doors. The crowd was so large I was doubting any ticket availability. But when we came to the doors there was a window selling tickets. We were elated that we could carry on with the party. And the media guys found us to follow up on our story.

We entered the stadium almost an hour before the game was to begin. This was my first time attending a soccer game. Normally I am not too invested in sports, in the US I always had a very negative view of them, although, that had more to do with the bureaucracy behind them and less with the sports themselves. But I have found I rather enjoy soccer games, particularly international games. And if I’m ever going to go to a match, why not one in Kenya?

In the stands it was one big party – reggae music was playing accompanied by whistles and horns and general cheering throughout the crowd and men were dancing and waving their Kenyan flags. But there was little to no drinking. However, people were not completely sober as another drug hung heavy in the air – I could do little to avoid breathing it with every breath. But with time this made for a calmer atmosphere. We watched the game and cheered on the Kenyan team.

People did not get too rowdy even up to the end of the game when it was clear Kenya wouldn’t win. Whenever there was too much aggression it was quelled by other men, reminding them to stay peaceful. Regardless we decided to leave a few minutes before the end of the game in case people got aggressive since Kenya was not winning. We did not leave in much advance we found as people were already flowing out. But the precaution proved unnecessary as people were still happy, dancing and singing unphased by loosing. They were happy to have see the game at all and to have time off to enjoy with each other. Watching people form a big circle to dance and sing together outside the stadium, I really fell in love with Kenya.

The day following the game a lot of people said they saw us on the news, so I looked it up and found the interview.
http://www.citizennews.co.ke/mobile/sports/2012/soccer/item/11000-colour-at-stars-vs-nigeria-match

Daily life and safaris

Days here are full of bright colors from flowers and birds everywhere I look. Though it’s winter here there’s still constant sun and during the day the temperature is rarely below 20C (70F). Nights get a bit cool but nothing I can complain about. And the sky fills with stars forming different constellations from the ones I know up north. When I walk home from work at dusk along the dirt road, I take in the view – a landscape filled with palms and acacia trees against the backdrop of the darkening sky. I can’t capture the image nor the feeling I have, I’m so lucky to be here. And pass the gates to enter my living complex there is one guard who smiles big every time as I greet him in the tiny bit of Kiswahili I know.

The last two weekends I was able to get out and see a bit. I went to Karura Forest, a beautiful forest within the city limits of Nairobi. Two of my colleagues from icipe joined me. We spent the day hiking spotting beautiful birds, butterflies and even some larger wildlife. We walked along a small river heading to the waterfalls. We also came across some caves that are a symbol of Kenya’s independence.

But the highlight of my time here so far was going on my first safari. Last weekend we organized a trip to Nairobi National Park. We left early in the morning, in hopes of seeing some predators. At the entrance we were greeted by a group of baboons, which tipped over a garbage can and fought for the food.

We were driven around in a safari van, which opens at the top so you can have a free range of vision. You aren’t allowed to walk around the park so having a removable roof is really necessary to really take in the park. The entrance of the park was a small forest but opened up into the vast savanna. It’s interesting to see buildings in the distance and apartment complexes right along the border of the park. The day was spent searching out wildlife which I can’t imagine anything more enjoyable. The animals here are so large and it’s just incredible to see them going about their days.

Although the park has lions, leopards and cheetahs they are quite rare to see. But we were lucky. We saw a pride of lions feeding on some prey when we entered, and again as we were leaving we came across a couple lions sleeping in the sun. But mostly our day was full of ungulates – gazelles, giraffes, hartebeests, impalas and so many more. Yet we had some other rare sights – black rhino which is on the verge of extinction. Granted it was incredibly far off, binoculars are also a must. To look out and see the beautiful savanna landscape with these incredible animals scattered across it feels like a cartoon more than anything else.

Going on the safari has only increased my desire to make time for more, hopefully, a longer one far away from any cities. But I was surprised that Nairobi National Park had so much considering the proximity to a big city.

 

 

Settling in

I’ve already been in Nairobi for over a week. Technically on the outskirts, in something akin to suburbs, called Kasarani. For the first week I was luckily able to stay at the guesthouse on the premises of where I will be doing my research. Here I could adjust and start getting my experiments organized. My research is mostly behavior oriented so there is a lot of preparation and then starring at fruit flies waiting for them to do something. I’m not going to lie, I love it. Somehow I’ve found myself actually working at my dream job. Of course my dream job would lack for pay, but money has never been all that important to me.

Mostly I have been busy with work but I have had a handful of experiences out and about. I did manage to find a flat with some french scientists right near the institute. I also went out to eat a few times. Twice for Ethiopian, which was delicious both times and quite a different way of eating. Ethiopian food is eaten with your hands, which is funny after living in Germany for two years where they even eat french fries with utensils. Last Wednesday was labor day so we had the day free. My ever so kindly guide here showed me how to get into town using public transport – matatu. It was quite the chaotic journey. Our journey in was filled with the commentary by a man selling some sort of healing pills which cured everything from Malaria to infertility and diabetes. On the packaging they said something along the lines of “God saves – we heal.”

But the highlight would have been heading home. We stayed longer than intended in town. When we were heading home it was a mess. We searched though the matatus with men waving fingers in the air to express the fair and eventually found one for an acceptable price. These colorful buses are practically a disco inside in the evening – blasting american rap and reggae, decorated by neon lights and more colorful imagery. As we pulled out to head to the highway the matatus scraped passed eachother, several minor collisions were afforded before finally making it to the main road and heading out of the city center.

Unfortunately I am very limited in pictures I can take. I have been advised to avoid pulling out my camera or phone in public here. But when I make it to the parks I will be sure to take plenty.

Kenya – the journey

It’s late and I’m exhausted from traveling, spending today meeting new people and exploring my new home for the next 4 months. But it seems wise to take the time to recount the details while still fresh. I left Germany 2 days ago for probably one of the most exciting adventures of my life. I love traveling and Africa is a place I dreamed of coming ever since I was a little kid reading books on endangered species – cheetah being the biggest dream.

My flights were long but not unbearable. The readily available entertainment they offer truly helps with remaining sane. I flew out of Hamburg. They have these entertaining rather small boxes where loads of people stuff themselves inside to hel ease the nicotine cravings. Quite glad that’s not a habit of mine. I had a stopover in Dubai and arrived at 5 in the morining; in such a big international airport time doesn’t really exist. People are still drinking in bars, shopping, eating and also sleeping. I had a a lovely dish of vegetable biryani courtesy of my airline. I could not pass up Indian food for boring old breakfast. I wandered like a zombie and tried to stretch myself out in preparation for the next flight. Took some pictures of the interesting scenery inside the airport.  Enjoyed the enormous diversity of peoples, clothing, and languages. Most people hate airports, but to me they are just a part of traveling to farther and more interesting locations. How could I hate them? Well except for their ecological burden.

My flight was delayed for an hour and I sat watching this drama unfold between these two adorable toddlers. The boy was full of energy and pursuing this bright young girl. She pushed him away and didn’t want to share her snack food. To which her mother replied she must share it and the boy took the whole bag and ran away. Much crying ensued.

The flight was shorter than the first, but no sleep was enjoyed. I luckily had a window seat and was  able to watch with awe as we approached Kenya. Arriving was disorienting. It was good to have a car pick me up and a place set to stay. And here, just outside of Nairobi, I will stay for four months.

Usiku mwema