So the other day started out a bit different than most. Instead of heading straight into work I waited for the man who was coming to clean. I have avoided calling him because I feel a bit guilty paying someone to clean up for me. But here you have to hand wash all the clothes and everyday there is a coating of dust that settles throughout the house. My flatmate, who I haven’t actually lived with yet, and have really been just staying at his place, is returning this week. He normally has this guy come and clean so I figured he would leave the place in whatever sort of standard my flatmate might prefer. And the man who came to clean was very happy to receive some work. So I worked over my data while I waited for him to finish cleaning and headed into work shortly before lunch.
At lunch one of my colleagues and I went to a nearby cafe where I ate chapati with beans. Chapati is a common food eaten here, quite similar to tortillas but always freshly cooked. On the TV they were discussing the game for this afternoon – the Kenya vs. Nigeria qualifiers for the 2014 world cup. We had discussed going to this before but never made arrangements. We weren’t sure if we could get tickets still since it was only a couple hours away. But it wasn’t too far to walk there so we decided to make an adventure out of it and head to the stadium and see if we could get in.
As we headed over we were met with people selling all sorts of Kenyan paraphernalia. I got a scarf and my friend bought a flag. People were more and more covered in Kenyan colors and the atmosphere was thick with excitement. The streets were flooded with people heading to the game and people selling merchandise and food for the game. People were always eager to get the attention of us “muzungus” as we walked by, being quite aggressive at times some even draping us in scarves and other items. We asked any guards we came across about buying tickets and were turned this way and that and given some conflicting information. We asked a couple men carrying large cameras about tickets and it turned out they were from the media and insisted on interviewing us. They told us after we should just try at the doors. The crowd was so large I was doubting any ticket availability. But when we came to the doors there was a window selling tickets. We were elated that we could carry on with the party. And the media guys found us to follow up on our story.
We entered the stadium almost an hour before the game was to begin. This was my first time attending a soccer game. Normally I am not too invested in sports, in the US I always had a very negative view of them, although, that had more to do with the bureaucracy behind them and less with the sports themselves. But I have found I rather enjoy soccer games, particularly international games. And if I’m ever going to go to a match, why not one in Kenya?
In the stands it was one big party – reggae music was playing accompanied by whistles and horns and general cheering throughout the crowd and men were dancing and waving their Kenyan flags. But there was little to no drinking. However, people were not completely sober as another drug hung heavy in the air – I could do little to avoid breathing it with every breath. But with time this made for a calmer atmosphere. We watched the game and cheered on the Kenyan team.
People did not get too rowdy even up to the end of the game when it was clear Kenya wouldn’t win. Whenever there was too much aggression it was quelled by other men, reminding them to stay peaceful. Regardless we decided to leave a few minutes before the end of the game in case people got aggressive since Kenya was not winning. We did not leave in much advance we found as people were already flowing out. But the precaution proved unnecessary as people were still happy, dancing and singing unphased by loosing. They were happy to have see the game at all and to have time off to enjoy with each other. Watching people form a big circle to dance and sing together outside the stadium, I really fell in love with Kenya.
The day following the game a lot of people said they saw us on the news, so I looked it up and found the interview.
http://www.citizennews.co.ke/mobile/sports/2012/soccer/item/11000-colour-at-stars-vs-nigeria-match
ecoforager 